How to Spend Five Days in the Dordogne

We visited the region at the end of April/early May 2017, leaving London on a Thursday afternoon and returning Monday night. The end of April was still quite early in the tourist season, so we had most of the castles almost entirely to ourselves.

Day 1 - We arrived on a late afternoon flight and drove to Domaine des Etangs in our rental car. After settling in our room and exploring the castle, we enjoyed the tasting menu at the hotel's Michelin-star restaurant, Dyades.

Day 2 - After a relaxing morning wandering the hotel’s vast park land, we ventured offsite to nearby Château de Rochechouart, a contemporary art gallery housed within a Renaissance castle.

Day 3 - This region is known for its chateaux. We headed southeast to visit the castles of Montbrun, Jumilhac, and Hautefort, each about a 30-minute drive apart. These are just three of 23 sites to visit along the Richard the Lionheart route, recalling the tragic fate of the English King who was killed in the region in 1199.

Day 4 - With some castles closed on Sundays, we decided to explore Brantôme, known as the “Venice of the Dordogne.” The Benedictine Abbey is a highlight, which was originally built in the hollow of a cliff and where you can still tour the caves that were used to house the monks. We loved the quaint shops in Brantôme, including an artisanal soap workshop and shop, Savonnerie de Brantome. The rain kept us from exploring the charming village of Périgueux, but we did escape into its vast cathedral.

Day 5 - We bid adieu to our magical hotel and planned to make a stop on the way to the airport. One of the most powerful sights in France, Oradour-sur-Glane is a tiny village destroyed by Nazi troops at the end of WWII and its inhabitants massacred. The French government decided to conserve the ruins as a memorial, frozen in time. This ghost town brought to life what we have only read about in history books. It’s an important reminder of the casualties of war.